It
has finally turned in to a hot, sticky, energy-zapping August here.
Summer kept us waiting this year, and as is usually the case when
that happens, the heat and humidity it finally brought with it are
barely tolerable (ask any real Genovese).
Anyway,
it's a Saturday evening and after over-filling my stomach I decided
to go out for a walk along the water's edge in the very “touristy”
part of the port known as the Porto Antico
– which is ironic because in its current layout it is rather
modern, and probably the newest part of the entire port – the rest
being completely off-bounds to most people anyway.
I
think the original work to modernize this part of the city was
carried out for the 1994 commemoration of the 500th
anniversary of Columbus's discovery of the Americas.
Among other things, the Porto Antico
area is home to the city's aquarium, which happens to be the largest
in Europe, as well as the main tourist attraction, even for Italians
from other parts of the country.
As I headed towards the sea, I noticed
that there were more people than usual out this evening, and that's
when I remembered they were installing the new extension to the
aquarium, in the form of a giant dolphin tank.
The aquarium is designed like a tanker
ship, parked alongside a pier that sticks out into the heart of the
port. This pier is one of my favourite parts of the city, but not
because of the aquarium (impressive as it may be).
If you walk straight past the aquarium
and keep going until you get to the very end of the pier, you would
normally reach this favourite place of mine: a series of three
six retired barges that have been transformed into three floating public
decks with railings all around the edges and lots of park benches to
sit on, soaking up the sun or staring dreamily into the water, while
the waves gently rock you.
This is perhaps one of the quietest,
most peaceful and relaxing places you will find anywhere in the city
although I have never been able to understand why.
Unfortunately, for several months now
my beloved barges had been moved off to some remote and inaccessible
corner of the port while dredging was carried out to make way for the
dolphin tank, which has now been dragged through after it was built
in a boatyard somewhere else in the port.
The front of the “ship”, which
usually houses a restaurant, a curio shop and another public area
with benches, was moved to one side; the dolphin tank attached in the
middle; and then the front was added back on again.
I am happy to report that the barges
now seem to have returned, although they are still closed off for now
and not yet in their normal layout. Some further dredging is being
carried out in the same area, so it may be a while before they are
actually reinstated, but at least I can see them there.
On the downside, I measured the total
length of the new dolphin tank module (a large swimming pool with an
enclosed glass corridor along the public side of the deck next to
it), and found that it measured roughly 100 of my own paces, walking
slowly. At a run it would no doubt take me much less. I can only
begin to imagine how many seconds it must take a dolphin to swim from
one end to the other.
I will keep my eye on the situation
and let you know when the barges are definitively back and just how
happy the dolphins are looking once they move in...
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